Soldier going into Fox hole

As the solider lifts the small hidden cover off the ground, it reveals a small square sized hole, barely big enough to fit a man. Slowly and calmly, he puts both feet into the deep dark hole. Lifting up his hands towards the sky and holding his rifle above his head, he forms a pencil dive and disappears into the earth. Lastly, his hand reaches up and replaces the man hole cover, completely covering himself and disappearing into the fox hole.

The tunnel is pitch black. There is no lighting, no air conditioning and not enough room to stand. As the solider drops to his arms and legs, he reaches into his pocket and whips out a wax candle. Lighting it, it provides some faint illumination in the underground tunnel. The height of the tunnel is approximately 1.3 metres tall, easy for a small child to stand but forces men to walk hunched over. The width of the tunnel provides no comfort either as it is 60 centimeters wide. He begins to walk like a monkey, bent over with his hands by his side, knees slightly bent.

The tunnels are several metres underground, resulting in stifling heat, as sweat drips down his forehead and back. It is uncomfortable, and as he continues to walk and tire, he will begin to crawl.

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Cu Chi Tunnel

These tunnels provide protection and safety for the Viet Cong soldiers. It is here that they sleep, eat, fight, live and die. It is estimated that of the 15,000 people living in the tunnels, only 5,000 people survived at the end of the war time.

Stretching for 200km in the Cu Chi area, are a system of complex tunnels. Intersections, booby traps and multiple levels are present. In order to provide food for thousands of people and remain undetected, the Viet Cong thought of innovative ways to hide the smoke from the cooking, Smoke chambers were pockets in the tunnels which allowed smoke to fill one chamber and then pass to another, slowly filtering to the surface. By cooking in the very early hours morning, any traces of smoke would be disguised by the midst.

Booby traps were placed throughout the tunnels to prevent the enemy from following them. One of these was a pit created which had sharp spikes protruding from the sides and floor. There were also grenades and bombs hidden in the tunnels with trip wires. The tunnels were an extremely dangerous place.

Booby trap

Everything was done in the power to kill the Viet Cong. Bombs were dropped causing massive craters in the Cu Chi area, some 25 metres in diameter and 5 metres deep. Soldiers were sent into the tunnels to fight. Chemical warfare, fire, grenades was used to flush them out. Bulldozers were sent in to raze the ground. German sheperds were brought in to find the underground warriors. The water was poisoned. But still the North Vietnamese refused to surrender. One has to admire the persistence, tenacity and their will to survive given these impossible conditions.

The Cu Chi tunnels is heavily visited by tourists to Saigon. Busloads of tourists arrive each day, as people eagerly wish to crawl in the tunnels. As you walk deeper into the Cu Chi area, there are loud echoing gun shots from deep in the forest. What is very disturbing is that tourists are offered the chance to fire machine guns and rifles at a shooting range. There is even a price per bullet. The tourists lineup to shell out money to empty a few bullets and relive the war experience.

However, it seems that very little has been learnt by the Cu Chi tunnel experience.Is not the point of visiting this war zone to reflect on what happened? 10,000 North Vietnamese died and countless number of allied troops, and South Vietnamese perished at the hands of each other. The gruesome nature at which both sides died are also evident as well as the effect of Agent Orange at the War Remnants museum.

Bullet prices

For some the war never happened. For others, the war never ended. Post traumatic stress syndrome continues to exist in ex-soldiers today. Memories and nightmares continue to haunt them. The sound of gunfire and bombs constantly going off at night. The fear of being attacked.. The South Vietnamese soldiers were also put into re-education camps, to bring them into the Communist fold.

In 1973, after much political pressure abroad and in their home country, American troops were pulled out of Vietnam. The Americans supported the South Vietnamese Republic as they did not want to see a Communist government in power. It is very similar to the situation in Korea.

Consequently in 1976, the North Vietnamese conquered South Vietnam with a dramatic takeover of the Palace in Saigon. Tanks rolled through the front gate and a solider raced to the roof to plant the flag of North Vietnam.

In 1994, a visit by Bill Clinton resulted in a historic moment that changed Vietnam. Bill Clinton decided to lift the US trade embargo. This meant that Vietnam could now trade with US. The country did not change overnight, but slowly the economy opened up and capitalist ideals began to develop and American companies began to move in. Prior to 1995, there were no internet, computers, and television. Over the last 14 years, the country has been transformed.

I’m out like 26,000 dong a bullet,

Matthew.