Inspired Travels

I’ve been in Ko Phangnan for several days now. This place is like party central*. We got here by flying to Koh Samui, then by van to Big Buddha pier, the closest to the airport. This place feels like Fiji. Then we got boat tickets to Haad Rin, which is a beach on Ko Phangnan, where the full moon party is at.  

This place is surreal. Lots of young people running around and partying. First night, I wasn’t sure what to expect. We went down to the beach at 10.30pm at night to the pre pre full moon party. This is two days before the actual full moon party. I got there and I could see a blaze of fires in the distance, and a massive mob of a crowd. As we got closer, it was absolutely packed with thousands of people dancing to RNB music. There was a wooden stage platform with several steps. It was huge dance party (and this is the pre pre party, a sign of things to come). I imagine this is what Spring Break in Cancun is like, but on steroids.

Most of the people here are young. in their 20’s. I think half the people here are Australians, the other half are from the UK, Israel or the States.

Our resort here is the bomb. Its like a 10 minute walk to the beach. Its a bit further from the action, but that is fine. Its a bit more relaxed and probably a lot more secure as it is further away from the full moon party.  There’s a restaurant, a two pools. We’re all on the same block, on a floor with 15 guys!

The pre pre full moon party was crazy. Thousands of people dancing on the beach to rnb music, techno, house. We were outside this bar called Cactus for most of the night, where the majority of people were. It was like everyone was moving as one. I had read that it was a good idea to wear shoes, because of broken glass everywhere. So I made sure I wore my sneakers. Later that night, of the guys on my trip took off his thongs (sandals), and stepped on a piece of glass. ouch. My friend Folau had to get some stitches, kinda sucks as it happened on the first night. All I can say is shoes/sandals people! I saw a few other people also hobbling around, others carrying injuries from motor bike accidents or just too much partying.

You can get whatever you want here. For me, I’m just gonna enjoy the music, the dancing, hanging out at the pool and with my friends. There’s a different scene here and I’m glad I have my head on straight and the values that I have been brought up on. As a Christian, I’m going to respect my body. You can enjoy this place without getting caught up in everything else that goes on. In fact, there’s not many Asians here on this island (other than the locals). I’ve seen a few Japanese tourists around. I think its a scene that a lot of them don’t want to be part of - Asians want to go eat, shopping, see the sites, etc…

The full moon party is about to start in a coupla hours. It’s gonna be insane, and I’ll tell you all about it soon!

I’m out like the pre full moon party,

Matt Ho.

*or what i like to call “Straight Hedonism”

This time in Thailand, its feels different. I was here in February 2007 with my friend Tim. This time I’m travelling with 5-8 guys, which has now been expanded to 15 guys! Epic!!

Aside from that, in the past few months I’ve been reading about the civil turmoil in Thailand, the unrest and the riots. I saw pictures on the news, on the internet, in newspapers of the main streets being barricaded, tires being piled onto the street forming a makeshift barrier. Handmade wooden and metal spikes were forged, creating a threatening prescence to anyone that tried to cross them. A line not to cross. From what I understand, people from the regional provinces were protesting in Bangkok. They had come to try to bring the previous government back to power. It was chaos, creating an unease as the swell of protestors grew and refused to leave. Then the government decided to move in and take over, killing the protestors that stood in the way.

I find it hard to imagine this could happen. Thai people are so hospitable, so well trained in customer service, and exude such a calm demeanour. Always smiling, joking and welcoming. This country seems so chilled out, so peaceful, but I guess a political tension simmers below the surface.

On Saturday, we wanted to visit the shopping districts around Bangkok. There’s area around Siam Square / National Stadium where there are a few huge shopping centres. Underneath Siam station is where the barricades were put. I walked underneath, not knowing this had occured a few months earlier. A scene of devestation and terror.

We were expecting to see Central world as our first stop. However, all we found was a building that had several floors burnt and the word “Peace” grafftit’d on the side. When we tried to enter the building, we were told it was not possible. It had been burnt down. The lobby of the building could be akin to world square in Sydney. A mix of commercial and shopping areas. It was an empty husk of a building when we got closer. We were all shocked to say the least.

We then went to another shopping centre, a kinda upmarket one. Only to find out that it was also burnt to the ground. We then headed to Paragon, cause we were sure this existed since we had visited it the day before!

I had heard that the Royal Stock exchange has also been razed to the ground as well as few other buildings. My only explanation is that these were symbols of capitalism. The shopping centres were more upmarket ones that we visited. They were destroyed for what they represented. I don’t think they would touch MBK, cause that’s a shopping centre the locals would visit.

I’m out like burnt shopping centres,

Matt Ho.

It’s Sunday and I’m waiting at the pier at Big Buddha to head to the full moon party. There’s 13 of us heading over, comprising of guys from my basketball Team, “Team ODC” and the extended family.

The past 5 – 6 days have gone by quickly. Wednesday night I finished up work and headed to the Goldcoast. Then flew to Thailand via Malaysia (gotta love Airasia’s cheap flights). There weren’t enough beds so we had to play poker for’em. Thankfully we worked out a suitable arrangement for everyone. And we had chips for dinner because no restaurants were open next to the airport after 9.30pm.

We hit Bangkok at about 10pm and had dinner at Suan Lum night market bazaar. We had Pad Thai for 35 Baht (slightly more than a $1) and beers for about $2 (big ones too!). We feasted like kings for a night – surely a sign of things to come.

And Ho Touch ? Its a slogan from a fast food restaurant at Kuala Lumpur called Marrybrown. I think its meant to be “Hotouch”.

I’m out like Ho Touch,

Matt

I will be heading off on an overseas trip in July to Thailand / Malaysia / Singapore. It’s been on my mind for a while to get my travel shots.

Things are starting to get into place – I recently bought my travel insurance and we’ve booked out flights and most of our accommodations. I recommend Travel Insurance Direct. I’ve used them for a few years now and find that its cheap and extensive coverage. Everything’s handled online and you can get a quote immediately.

The other thing I need to do is get some travel shots. I haven’t been able to find much information on the net about when to get them. But from my experience and having visited a few doctors in the past, it should be 4-6 weeks before you head overseas.

So what kind of shots should I be getting? Previously when I went to South East Asia (Vietnam, Thailand) in 2007, I had two shots which both contained 2 in 1 shots. Shots that might consider getting are tetanus, diphtheria, Hep A and Typhoid. I’m a big fan of the 2 in 1 shots because its means I have less needles!

You also need to be aware that with some injections you can get booster shots. This means that within 6-12 months you can get another shot that can last like 10 years. Some shots also last for a longer period of time.

Here are some websites that can help you find out what travel injections you might need:

Travel Doctor – You can put in the country, where you are from and duration, and it gives you some automated information.

Medicine Net

Again, as you have heard many times – there is no substitute for getting some real medical advice!

I’m out like travel injections,

Matt Ho.

Soldier going into Fox hole

As the solider lifts the small hidden cover off the ground, it reveals a small square sized hole, barely big enough to fit a man. Slowly and calmly, he puts both feet into the deep dark hole. Lifting up his hands towards the sky and holding his rifle above his head, he forms a pencil dive and disappears into the earth. Lastly, his hand reaches up and replaces the man hole cover, completely covering himself and disappearing into the fox hole.

The tunnel is pitch black. There is no lighting, no air conditioning and not enough room to stand. As the solider drops to his arms and legs, he reaches into his pocket and whips out a wax candle. Lighting it, it provides some faint illumination in the underground tunnel. The height of the tunnel is approximately 1.3 metres tall, easy for a small child to stand but forces men to walk hunched over. The width of the tunnel provides no comfort either as it is 60 centimeters wide. He begins to walk like a monkey, bent over with his hands by his side, knees slightly bent.

The tunnels are several metres underground, resulting in stifling heat, as sweat drips down his forehead and back. It is uncomfortable, and as he continues to walk and tire, he will begin to crawl.

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Cu Chi Tunnel

These tunnels provide protection and safety for the Viet Cong soldiers. It is here that they sleep, eat, fight, live and die. It is estimated that of the 15,000 people living in the tunnels, only 5,000 people survived at the end of the war time.

Stretching for 200km in the Cu Chi area, are a system of complex tunnels. Intersections, booby traps and multiple levels are present. In order to provide food for thousands of people and remain undetected, the Viet Cong thought of innovative ways to hide the smoke from the cooking, Smoke chambers were pockets in the tunnels which allowed smoke to fill one chamber and then pass to another, slowly filtering to the surface. By cooking in the very early hours morning, any traces of smoke would be disguised by the midst.

Booby traps were placed throughout the tunnels to prevent the enemy from following them. One of these was a pit created which had sharp spikes protruding from the sides and floor. There were also grenades and bombs hidden in the tunnels with trip wires. The tunnels were an extremely dangerous place.

Booby trap

Everything was done in the power to kill the Viet Cong. Bombs were dropped causing massive craters in the Cu Chi area, some 25 metres in diameter and 5 metres deep. Soldiers were sent into the tunnels to fight. Chemical warfare, fire, grenades was used to flush them out. Bulldozers were sent in to raze the ground. German sheperds were brought in to find the underground warriors. The water was poisoned. But still the North Vietnamese refused to surrender. One has to admire the persistence, tenacity and their will to survive given these impossible conditions.

The Cu Chi tunnels is heavily visited by tourists to Saigon. Busloads of tourists arrive each day, as people eagerly wish to crawl in the tunnels. As you walk deeper into the Cu Chi area, there are loud echoing gun shots from deep in the forest. What is very disturbing is that tourists are offered the chance to fire machine guns and rifles at a shooting range. There is even a price per bullet. The tourists lineup to shell out money to empty a few bullets and relive the war experience.

However, it seems that very little has been learnt by the Cu Chi tunnel experience.Is not the point of visiting this war zone to reflect on what happened? 10,000 North Vietnamese died and countless number of allied troops, and South Vietnamese perished at the hands of each other. The gruesome nature at which both sides died are also evident as well as the effect of Agent Orange at the War Remnants museum.

Bullet prices

For some the war never happened. For others, the war never ended. Post traumatic stress syndrome continues to exist in ex-soldiers today. Memories and nightmares continue to haunt them. The sound of gunfire and bombs constantly going off at night. The fear of being attacked.. The South Vietnamese soldiers were also put into re-education camps, to bring them into the Communist fold.

In 1973, after much political pressure abroad and in their home country, American troops were pulled out of Vietnam. The Americans supported the South Vietnamese Republic as they did not want to see a Communist government in power. It is very similar to the situation in Korea.

Consequently in 1976, the North Vietnamese conquered South Vietnam with a dramatic takeover of the Palace in Saigon. Tanks rolled through the front gate and a solider raced to the roof to plant the flag of North Vietnam.

In 1994, a visit by Bill Clinton resulted in a historic moment that changed Vietnam. Bill Clinton decided to lift the US trade embargo. This meant that Vietnam could now trade with US. The country did not change overnight, but slowly the economy opened up and capitalist ideals began to develop and American companies began to move in. Prior to 1995, there were no internet, computers, and television. Over the last 14 years, the country has been transformed.

I’m out like 26,000 dong a bullet,

Matthew.

Saigon Nightlife

The warm night forces many tourists to retreat to the noisy bars and cafes in Le Loi St in the Pham Ngu Lao district. Motorbikes whiz past the befuddled tourist as they attempt to cross the two metre wide road strip. A lady walks past pushing a trolley with a weighing machine, a coin operated machine commonly found in a shopping centre or a local chemist. Hoping that the tourist will want to see how much they weigh, but no one takes up her offer.

A street performer, a boy no older than eleven, dressed in red shorts and t-shirt stops abruptly in front of the café. He shouts “Oi Oi” to catch the attention of the customers. Lighting two sticks, he slowly lifts up the flaming metal skewers for dramatic effect. Bringing the skewer closer and closer to his mouth, he extinguishes it by closing his mouth around the burning stick. A small fee is necessary to collect for his street performance, as the tourists half heartedly reach into their pockets and give him a few thousand dong.

Upstairs in the Refinery, locals and expatriates gather together to listen to the latest tunes spun by an English DJ from his iMac laptop and Denton turntables. American hip hop music fills the air, as a group of local Vietnamese girls take a long drag of their Café Crème cigarettes in one hand and drink cans of Saigon beer in the other. Wearing headbands, jeans, cardigans, and colourful dresses they look no different to American or Australian women. Overpriced alcohol continues to flow at the bar as people mingle on the dancefloor. Suddenly, a noticeably large group of young American English teachers overtake the area.

Inside a cafe on De Tham St, Pham Ngo Lau district

Over at Apocalypse Now, affectionately known as “Apo” by the locals, is a popular nightspot. At the doors stand several security guards and a dozen more inside. It has the appearance of a sleazy bar/nightclub, with eye gouging alcohol prices. By midnight the place is overflowing with expats, local women prostitutes and openly gay men. The entire club is overcrowded, barely enough room to even stand on the dancefloor. As the club goers attempt to dance, it is a sea of people that sways and compresses as more people enter the room. A group of rowdy Australian men hug each other, bumping all in their wake. It would not surprise many to see a fight or riot break out given how many people are in such a small space.

I’m out like carting weigh machines,

Matthew

Song Cuu Long, the local name for the Mekong Delta means “The River of Nine Dragons”. The Mekong Delta, spans 40,000 sq kilometres, supporting 21 million people along its tributaries before distributing to the sea. It meanders through 5 countries – China, Laos, Burma, Thailand, and finally Vietnam. The locals, they know where they are based on the colour of the water. For brown is the colour of Mekong, green water for Saigon, and black for another Vietnamese province.

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The Mekong Delta is by far the biggest river I have ever seen. It is simply massive. It is most likely is the biggest river in the world! At the start of the River near Cai Be, it stretches as far as the eye can see. I had to swivel my head around to see it from side to side.

The river is quite fertile, as Mekong people farm the land and water to make a living. Growing diverse crops from jackfruit, coconuts, mangoes, rambutans, longans and rice. There were so many longans growing along one part of the river, it was like being in an endless fruitshop and you could just each up and pick what you wanted. Crops float in the water effortlessly, stretching many metres onto the river.

The river is also home to many types of sea animals from fish, crabs, lobsters, shrimps, clams. Some locals have fish nets underneath their houses, which are brimming full of fish. Animals are also farmed on the land  as well.

Vietnam is the world’s 3rd largest exporter of rice, after India and Thailand. The total production of rice is 3.5 million tonnes. The Vietnamese also harvest the rice differently, collecting the broken rice. The rice is high in quality as it is grown at the last part of the Mekong Delta. Though if you do eat it, Vietnamese rice taste different – the rice isn’t sticky, but rather loose (i.e. broken rice!).

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Cai Be market, is a floating market where boats trade in fruit and vegetables. There are boats about 5 – 7 metres in length, made of wood, quite rudimentary vechicles. One wonders how they made it so far along the Mekong Delta using these crafts. About 30 – 40 boats were floating in Cai Be, selling goods from coconuts, pumpkin, sweet potato, and firefood.

A bamboo cane stands on the roof of each boat, with a piece of the vessel’s cargo spiked into it. It indicates what each boat is selling, much like a flag on a boat.

The minimum purchase is 10 kilos as this is the wholesale fruit and vegetable market. No tourist takes up the tour guide’s offer to buy fruit and vegetable, even a few pieces.

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Heading upstream, is the coconut village. A farm solely dedicated to growing, harvesting and making products from coconut. Everything from coconut milk, candy, bread, and even the shell is used. It was believed that coconut village’s early inhabitants thought that coconuts had fertility power and also had a religion based on coconuts.

We were shown how coconut candy was being produced. Then we were funnelled from store to store. It felt like the biggest sales pitch ever!

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The smaller rivers lead to farms with a diverse range of fruit. Most of the locals live on houseboats, so they can rise with the tide. These are like ramshackle joints, and you can see markings on the bank to witness how high the tide rises. There is no point building a house on the banks, as it can flood quite easily. Unless you have $100,000 USD to splash out.

The boats are so crucial to their way of life. Ask how many people are living in their families, and they will add an extra member for their boat.  As the Mekong people consider their boats as a member of their family.

In the 17th Century, the river was full of crocodiles. To ward them off, many of the boats have two eyes painted on the front. However in the 19th century, many of these creatures disappeared. Yet the boats retained the eyes. It was something passed down from generation to generation, this culture of painting eyes on the boat. Now, they serve a different purpose, to symbolically help the boat see. The locals also believe in the boat fairy, and they sacrifice foods (fruit or meat) to bring them luck.

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The Mekong Delta gives so much life and produce to Vietnam, and the rest of the world. One wonders two questions. Firstly, how much do these locals recieve for their produce. Looking at how poorly they live, one would assume very little. Secondly, what is being done to sustain the river to preserve it for future generations? A river so vital and important to the world, producing more rice than Korea and Japan combined.

When I look back on the trip, it truly was an amazing place.  Heading back into the city, the roads were flooded. Not from the Mekong Delta but from heavy torrential rains. The water crept up to the shop fronts and was up to halfway on the bike tires. Locals were struggling to drive through it on their motorbikes.

I’m out like the Mekong Delta,

Matt.

Vietnam is really hot and sticky. Luckily I brought a pair of shorts with me. Walking around for the majority of the day, I think I’ve got some sunburn! Its got to be like 25 – 30 degrees out here at midday and I’m drenched in sweat.

Pham Ngoc Lau is one street full of cafes, restaurants, bars, hostels and travel vendors. During the day it looks totally different – more of the shops were open than the previous night, there are more people walking around. We actually didn’t recognise it at first glance.

On the way to the Reunification Palace, we made a pit stop at  Ben Thanh Market. Its sprawling market place, selling everything from meat, fresh produce, clothes and silk. It also has a food court area. I don’t really like going there for shopping, and I’ve been there twice now. It’s really uncomfortable because the shop lanes are really narrow, and vendors like to grab you or stuff clothes in your face in the hope that you might be interested. I hate getting harrassed to shop.

Eventually we found some food, and settled down for a couple of drinks. We tried my favourite viet drink – Sinh Do Bo, which is an avocado shake. I’ve bought it many times in Bankstown as well as in Boston, USA! We also had Nuec Mia, which is a sugar cane juice, also very sweet and tasty. We ordered it with no ice, because of the local water in it.

We then found ourselves in front of the massive complex, which is the Reunification Palace. However on Sunday it is closed at lunch time. The Notre Dame Church was also nearby but also closed! We then chilled out at the GPO and this bar we found. This bar, I would call the equivalent of Cargo Bar in Sydney because it was pumping some really loud duff duff music in the front, had hostesses, a hip young crowd as well. It even had a water feature in the front!

The Reunification Palace was somewhat interesting but lacking in architecture. We found out that the South Vietnamese were using it to run their war efforts, but it was overthrown when two tanks rolled through the front lawn! A solider then went to the top of the building and planted their flag. I find it fascinating how there was a bomb shelter near this desk where the Commander worked from. It the event of bombing, he woudl escape through this door and go to the basement and continue working and co-ordinating. Seemed like everything was geared for war in this Palace and in Vietnam during this time (see the airport bomb shelters above!).

Walking back, we then stumbled across a outdoor soccer game. It was like half the size of a regular soccer field, in a 6 vs 6 format. We watched a couple of the games, and had a beer in the cafe overlooking it. It was very refreshing and I could really see that soccer was a global game.

At night, we went to this restaurant called Din Ky recommended by the hotel. It was in a upbeat area on a street called Nguyen Trai. It reminded me a bit of Mongkok in Hong Kong. Heaps of activity, lights, people buzzing past. We lived it up and orderd about 5 dishes. Sea bass fish, vermicelli with crab meat, fried rice in lotus leaf, spring rolls, clams and custard apple shakes! We somehow managed to finish it all and chilled out at the roof top of the Go 2 Bar.

I’m out like getting harrased in the market,

Matt

Its not actually morning over here, its 9.40pm in Saigon. But I’ve always wanted to say that! I’m writing this blog post in an internet cafe in Saigon, Vietnam. I’m in the backpacker area in Pham Ngoc Lau. I think its district 1 for those familiar with the city. It’s just up the road from the bar/  nightclub “Crazy Buffalo”.

I’ve been in Saigon for about 2 days and 1 night. Life is hectic over here. With the motorbikes buzzing past constantly, people walking on the streets, the markets and the street hawkers. We’ve had a full on two days, even though we haven’t done everything we could in those two days if you know what I mean.

The flight was long from Sydney. We had to change in Darwin, and then we arrived in Saigon. When we were touching down you could see the lights of the city, which were very close to the airport. It was then that the excitement hit me, that I was entering a new city, a totally foreign place. There were the faint outlines of bunkers, half cyclindrial shape sheds which I understand were bomb shelters but are now used to store trucks and equipment.

We got to the hotel at about 11pm. After haggling at the airport with the taxi driver, we conceded this 50,000 dong fee for this mysterious ticket. I knew it was BS and kept arguing with him and also he refused to use the taxi meter. My #1 rule is to use the meter. But I was tired after it was only a few dollars, so I gave in and he was adamant about it (as was I). Anyway, the fixed fee proved to be accurate but the ticket fee was bogus as I later found out.

We then checked in, headed out to this area called Pham Ngoc Lau which feels like Kings Cross. After walking around we decided on this cafe with little plastic seats and had some spring rolls and a beer, and watch the traffic go past. It was Halloween, and the local kids were out in full force. There were facepainting, kids on motorbikes crusing up the street and even a guy with a complete grim reaper outfit! Then all of a sudden there was furious honking, and a motorcade of about 50 kids came past in Halloween gear and shouting. The streets were alive!

We were still starving and wanted some Pho. We had walked past this place called Pho Qunyh. It looked like a local joint on the corner with plenty of locals inside. It was nice and clean, so we went in and ordered “pho dac biet” (special pho). I have one word to describe it: AWESOME! Cost us about 40,000 dong ($2.50 AUS) with lots of noodles and meat.

Now it was around 12am and pretty tired after flying and out for 12hours. But it was a Saturday night in Saigon so we  hit up a club called Crazy Buffalo! It has two levels, with a club in the upper level. Very tiny inside, but it was jam packed. They were playing a lot of US Top 40 music like Akon and Black Eyed Peas. The locals knew the words (not sure if they understood it!) and had new phones like the Nokia Express. I’ve seen a few iphones around in Saigon too! The beers are very cheap in Saigon, about 12,000 ($0.75 AUD) in some cafes but in the club it was about $3.

And there you have it, my first night in Saigon!

I’m out like the Crazy Buffalo,

Matt.

A friend of mine, Fiona James has written a Top 10 travel commandments article for MSN NZ.

I particularly like this tip of hers:

1. Less is more
Whether you’re roughing it or on a five-star splurge, smart travellers know that light luggage means an easier trip. If you’re rushing to meet a flight connection you’ll be thankful you didn’t pack excess. And taking less leaves more space for shopping!

Matt: Yes I agree, but never think too much of this. Last night I was up til 3am packing in between doing other things. The more stuff you pack, the more likely you are going to hit that weight limit. The less you pack, the easier and faster it is to move, and you don’t have to worry about being over the limit.

I remember in Hong Kong, I had a carry-on bag that was too big & heavy. I didn’t want to pay the excess baggage fee since it was only inexpensive clothes, and it wasn’t worth it. So I forced to repack, and ended up wearing 3 jumpers on the plane! I would like to avoid that situation again. Nothing makes me laugh more than seeing people opening their bags at Check-In terminal trying to stuff more things into other bags and repack.

I’d also add this tip to her Top 10 list:

11. Pack early, such as the night or weekend before the day flying out

Although I was still packing stuff til 3am, I had actually packed most of my luggage the night before.

Why?

So I could relax a bit more on the night before my trip (cause it was a Friday night and who wants to be at home!). The second reason was to see if I was missing any items. I didn’t have a a few crucial items, so I went out and bought them.

If I had packed on the last night and was missing things, I wouldn’t have had the chance to buy them or would have to buy on the day flying out which is always rushed. There may be some items that you can’t buy overseas or local products you prefer, and Airport is always expensive (since they have a monopoly!).

When I was travelling 2 years ago on my big trip overseas, I packed the weekend before cause I knew I was going to have a busy week. It proved to be right as I had to work until my last day flying out (my fault more than anything!).

However, I also have in the back of my mind, that if I forget anything, I can buy it overseas! E.g. if I need an extra shirt, toiletries, memory card, etc…. The world is a global marketplace!

I’m flying out in about 3 hours – see you on the otherside!

Cheers,

Matt