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The travel blog of Matthew Ho

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Oct '09

Dead Presidents

Friday, February 15, 2008 at 4:30am

In the Nation’s capital, some of mankind’s greatest achievements are for all to see. Towering over the city is the Washington Monument, the largest free standing stone masonry ever built. A portion of man’s greatest collection of art, natural history, air and space achievements, are housed in several of the Smithsonian museums. Large, Greco-Roman buildings dot the landscape of Washington DC.

Democratic institutions showing the division of the legislature, the judiciary and the state into 3 arms are found – Capitol Hill, Supreme Court, and Parliament. The names of streets read “Constitution Ave”, “Independence Ave”, echoing the principles of a free society. It was here, on the steps of the Lincoln Memorial, where Martin Luther King cried out “I have a dream!”.

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In the National Archives, store the three great documents from which the most powerful nation in the world was built. Amongst dim light, tight security, fire-proof, bomb-proof, titanium encased boxes, several faded documents written in long English writing are barely able to be seen. In here, stand the Declaration of Independence which gave birth to a new country. In the middle, surrounded by two security guards, lies the original U.S Constitution, the foundations of a democracy. The Bill of Rights on the other side, no less important, expounded the 12 rights of the citizens – the right to be tried by jury, the right to free speech and other freedoms which American citizens enjoy today. This became the model of other democracies and the foundations of constitutions in countries like Venezuela. The document for the 13th amendment can also be found, dubbed the Emancipation proclamation declaring the freedom of all slaves.

Idolized by their citizens are huge monuments dedicated to President Lincoln, Roosevelt and Jefferson. The immense size, grandeur, and the statues housed inside are powerful striking images. On the walls, are inscribed famous speeches and quotes which they gave, indicated their importance in fathering the United States.

The Korean War Memorial has an inscription of the words “Freedom Is Not free”, for the lives of countless men lie buried underneath the battlefields of decades gone past. Statutes of soldiers stand in battle formation anticipating the crack of gun fire. At the Vietnam Veteran War Memorial, the men are remembered by a black stone wall with their names inscribed in the chronological order in which they were killed. Lest we forget the 400,000 stars at the National World War 2 Memorial, a star for each man felled during World War 2. On the ground, it is written “Victory on sea. Victory on air. Victory on land.”

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But at what cost?

To live in a free and democratic society, young men and women suffered, were persecuted, and died.

America’s capital is depicted as one of inspiration, of hope, of testament to its greatness, as one of a memorial to its dead. But there is something wrong with this picture when you walk around. On every street corner is a lamppost and a homeless person, holding out a cup and jingling the coins inside. Men and women stand outside the CVA pharmacy, the supermarkets, the parks, the train stations, the Starbucks, living in desperation. For this is the land of opportunity, but clearly opportunity never found them.

In the freezing cold they stand, in the treacherous conditions, they lie wrapped in blankets on park benches. Amidst the politicians, the lawyers, the lawmakers, the lobbyists, the tourists, are the homeless. These are predominantly men of colour, noticeably of African American race. Lincoln once said “All men are created equal” but clearly not all men live equally. Live free, die poor in D.C.

The IRS (Internal Revenue Service) building is adorned with the motto “taxes are what society pays for order”. One wonders, how much of this revenue is spent funding the war efforts of fighting foreign legions and despots and how little is a spent addressing home grown problem like homelessness and crime that exists in its own backyard. The government fights the war on terror, the war on drugs, but neglects the war on poverty.

Washington is blanketed with heavy security as it contains many of the nation’s treasures (including its beloved politicians). Armed security patrol Capitol Hill with AK-47’s and double barreled shotguns. Security screens are present at every entrance, and a policeman on every corner to boot. “Empty your pockets!” barks the angry female security guard (who probably hasn’t had her wheaties today). Patrol cars dash up and down the streets, men walk around in secrecy with walkie talkies and earphones attached. Post September 11, America is not taking any chances and has stepped up her security. A sense of urgency and quiet alarm is evident in Washington DC.

Across the river lies a funny shaped building with five sides. It looks extremely ugly, and men in camouflage gear walk around. For this is the most secretive building in the whole of the United States – the infamous Pentagon. From the outside, it looks extremely unimpressive. One cannot even take photos of the building or the train station underneath. No walk in tours are allowed and there is a sense of heightened security at the entrance, as all visitors are scanned and searched.

Opposite the obelisk known as Washington monument is another one of these Greco-Roman monstrosities. It reads “BEP”. Any 14 year old will tell you the acronym stands for Black Eyed Peas, the American rap group. However, the only association it has with hip hop is the amount of money flashing inside. For this is the Bureau of Engraving and Printing, where paper is turned green and made into money. Mountain stacks of money are printed by the minute, pressed by engraving plates and oodles of green ink stamped and secret holographic images are applied. As a final step, serial numbers are attached, money is counted, collated and ready to be used.

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Where dead presidents have their faces printed on the back of money. One wonders whether these dead presidents knew America would turn out like this. They created, shaped, and influenced the development of the United States and the world from within a solitary house, white in colour, surrounded by a huge perimeter fence with an army of policemen watching over them.

Washington D.C., the home of dead presidents.

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